On the heels of my Kanger Subox Mini (US/UK) review, I figured I would share how I wick. I know there is a degree of variance (more on this later), but this post will just be a quick overview of my preference.
This guide assumes that you already know how to make a coil, so if you don’t, do some Google-ing or keep an eye out on this blog for a future post covering the basics. In the Kanger Subox Mini review, I used .32 gauge kanthal, though I usually use x gauge, for a nice 1.5 ohm. Bear in mind that I am a mouth to lung vaper, so coil up as per your own tastes. I would suggest dry firing the coil to make sure heat is distributed evenly with no spots prior to wicking, as it’s easy to gauge a coil’s performance without it being loaded with juice.
As a side note; I believe there is no right or wrong way to vape with regards to resistance and type of coil. Flavour is subjective, and as long as you derive enjoyment (and keep away from the stinkies), it’s all good.
My coil is pretty basic. I know there are more complex styles with split center 3_3 designs amongst others, which I may cover in a later article, but this is really more for beginners who want to know a box standard build for their Subtank.
For this kind of a coil, you will simply need a coil and some cotton (roughly the amount you see in the photo below).
To start, I thread the wick as anyone normally would. I like to tuck the wick down into the deck. This is purely personal preference, as I know people do thread the wick through the top sometimes. Treading this way works best for me. I like to fluff out the cotton using tweezers and make sure the fit inside the coil is reasonably tight.
Next, I trim to the approximate length. I strongly suggest using sharp scissors, as you don’t really want the wick distribution to be offset by tugging from dull scissors. I recommend cutting at an angle towards the deck. It makes the excess cotton on the base easier to deal with whilst keeping enough to provide good contact with the side holes.
At this point, I tuck the wick inward into the deck (making sure to not block airflow). A gentle touch and frequent adjustment is the key. The wick needs to keep the coil saturated with juice whist being dense enough to control the flow of juice into the the deck.
Realistically, DIY coils are super cheap. A lot of people I know have given RDAs a shot and then promptly given up due to beginner blues. But screwing up a number of times is a very inexpensive risk to take, and remember, no one gets the perfect coil the first time around. I’d honestly recommend you trying to push through. Don’t get disappointed to the point where you quit – keep chasing your perfect vape. You will get there.
Once I have my deck looking as pretty as I want, I then snip the excess wire kanthal off.
When you tuck the RBA lid back on, make sure the screw is lined up with the slot and that you don’t have wick impeding the o-rings seal.
At this point, I then grab my tweezers and tug the wick a teensy bit from the side holes to help. I have seen more extreme protrusions, but I vape repetitively for 5 minutes. I guess this is a throwback to my smoking days. In any case, I have never had a dry hit using this setup, so I am reasonably confident this will work for you as well should you choose to try it out.
Before mounting on the mod, I check that it all looks “proper” and balanced. As far as I am concerned, this is one sexy coil, so I proceed to priming the wick with e-juice and testing it out.
I prime with a quite a few drops directly on the coil and through the side holes. I am careful not to flood the deck, but make sure the wick is saturated enough to test without turning the cotton crispy.
I then personally check resistance on the device. Ohm testers have been known to malfunction, so this is more me being paranoid. I aimed for 1.5 and this is exactly what I got.
Firing the coil should provide a decent vapour production. If it’s not looking good, this is the time to adjust the coil. After filling the tank, the job becomes messier, so I strongly advise getting testing out of the way prior to commitment.
Once all is said and done, I fill the tank and enjoy my tar-free vice. As you can see in the photo below, my wick does not protrude aggressively (if at all) . I have personally never had any issues, but I know some people feel they need to really have a lot of the wick into the tank for it to work optimally. My experiences differ, but your mileage may vary. Feel free to leave a comment sharing your experiences below, though.
And that’s it folks! All in all, the Kanger Subox Mini (US/UK) RBA is a trivial deck to build on. I can get it ready to rock and roll in less than 5 minutes now at a consistent resistance and performance. There is something to be said for single coil builds! To this day, the only issues I have had are the o-rings around the bottom of the RBA.
If pinched, you may find the device leaking from the air holes. It’s annoying, but easily fixed. I do wish Kanger would supply spare o-rings, though.
In a future article I will show more exotic builds for this deck. I know it’s relatively small, but it’s surprisingly versatile with regards to coil variance.